Vermentino is a vine that feels the sea, to be drunk in the last year of production.
Clichés must be broken to reach new goals. Francesco Mazzei and the producers of Vermentino della Doc Maremma led by him are succeeding.
Who have decided to explore a different path, that of Maremma and long-lived Vermentino.
With evolving perfumes and expanding taste.
Overcoming the ephemeral was the key to the last Vermentino Grand Prix, at the Terme di Saturnia.
50 pre selected Vermentino in the race.
Among the 10 best, 9 are from the previous year to the current one. Only one 2021 (Acquagiusta by "La Badiola". The others in 2020: Pedal by "Azienda Bruni"; Leopoldino Pepi Lignana by "Fattoria Il Casalone"; Puppets by "Guido F. Fendi"; Monnallegra by "Argentaia"; Norcias by "Colle Petruccio"; Audace by "Cupirosso"; Matan della Bagiola; Only Seal 12; Balbinvs by "Terenzi".
It is the Leopoldino Pepi Lignana from "Fattoria Il Casalone", the one that surprised us the most because it combines freshness with long life potential. It is produced by a Piedmontese engineer, former president of Cartiere Burgo: Pepi Lignana (in the illustration above), 84, flanked by his sons Corrado and Diego.
The name is a quote from the Leopoldino Cadastre, which certifies that in the 19th century wine was already produced on the estate on the Orbetello lagoon.
It was Pepi who found the Casalone land, by chance, stopping sixty years ago on the Aurelia due to a breakdown of his Fiat 600.
The Vermentino di lui, which smells of apricot and golden apple, contains 15% of Viognier which combines strength with the flavor of the dominant grape.
Corriere della Sera - Art. Of 01-04-2022 by Luciano Ferraro
